REPLACING BELLOWS - MicroTechnical, S92 and MicroPress Cameras

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Bellows are the flexible light tight connection between the camera back and the front standard. Older bellows were made of leather but replacements are usually of plastic.

Replacement becomes necessary due to age and wear causing pinholes to appear in the folds and letting light to the film.

Testing Bellows For Light Leaks is fairly easy. Take the camera into a darkroom and shine a torch (flashlight) inside. Look for pinholes of light at the folds and corners of the bellows.

Modified Bellows A modified type of bellows has been introduced by Camera Bellows Ltd. of Birmingham, England (April 2001) which give improved use of front standard movements (shifts) with wide angles lenses. This will be of particular interest to architectural photographers and others who use very wide angle lenses. Extension is however reduced to 220mm. Bellows are available in both black and red. Camera Bellows Ltd are able to supply a full range of replacement bellows for all MPP cameras and offer a fitting service if required. Contact Camera Bellows Ltd. direct for full information. Link at the 'Lots of Interesting Links' page.

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DISCRIPTION

The front of the bellows is fixed to the front standard by clamping it with a plate located inside the first fold. The bellows are thus sandwiched between the plate and the rear of the front standard. Machine screws from behind the lens panel recess hold the plate tight. Early cameras have 4 screws, later cameras use 8. They may vary in length so it is important to note the position of each when dismantling. A black cloth light tight 'gasket' may be fitted between the bellows and front standard.

The rear fixing is by way of 4 strip plates each with 4 screws. The plates are located under the outside of the largest fold. Each plate is secured with 4 screws from the bellows side. The camera back has threaded holes to take the screws.

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Screwdrivers - Assorted small.

Leather Punch - or some means of punching holes through the ends of the bellows.

Pins - for marking postion of holes in new bellows.

Bellows

Black Material or Velvet Strip - for light tight front 'gasket'. If Velvet then double sided sticky tape will be useful.

Adhesive - Black silicone sealant, Araldite, Evostick, Uhu or similar.

 

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DISMANTLING INSTRUCTIONS

1) Open the camera and remove the lens and accessories such as finders, also the camera back (hood, ground glass screen etc).

FRONT

2) Remove the screws inside the lens board recess (4 on early cameras, 8 on later models). Note which hole each screw came from as there may be differences. Click on picture for details of an 8 screw Mk VII.

3) Ease the bellows away from the front standard.

Mk VII FRONT STANDARD

BACK

4) Remove the camera back :-

i) Remove large screws at front end of the rear extension rods.

ii) Loosen the clamping crews and slide out the back complete with bellows.

5) Fold in each side of the bellows in turn, removing the 4 strip plates. Each plate is secured with 4 screws. Note which hole each screw comes from. Long ones fit at each end.

6) Remove the old bellows and reclaim the front fixing plate from inside the first fold. Keep for installing in the new bellows later.

Mk VII REAR BELLOWS FIXING

CLEANING

7) Clean all surfaces with a straight edge such as a chisel or knife used as a scraper.

8) Thoroughly clean all parts of the camera to extract any debris.

 

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Check the new bellows for correct type and fit. One side has a join or seam. This goes underneath where it will show least.

ASSEMBLING THE BACK

1) Lay the bellows on a flat surface and place the back on top. Ensure the side with the join is on the same side as the bottom of the back plate. Ensure correct alignment and that there is no obstruction of the aperture.

Aligning and Pinning Back

MARKING HOLES FOR PUNCHING

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2) Mark the position of the holes by pushing pins through each of the holes. Compare these with the old bellows for general correctness.

3) Using the leather punch make holes in marked positions and check for correct alignment with camera back and fixing plates.

4) Apply adhesive as per the makers instructions.

5) Fit the bellows and metal plates. Check alignment before the adhesive sets. Note that the long screws fit into each end of the plates unless your camera is different.

6) Refit the back into the camera body and refit extension rod screws.

FRONT

7) Check for correct fitting. If the first fold is rather tight and might obstruct a lens with a large rear end remove it. This should be done only after checking for full bellows extension.

8) Offer the bellows up to the front standard and mark position of holes using the same method used for the back.

9) Carefully punch holes.

10) Insert the metal fixing plate reclaimed from the old bellows.

11) Check alignment and make any adjustments necessary.

i) If using a cloth or velvet gasket fit it now.

ii) If not using a gasket, use black adhesive / silicone sealant.

12) Apply adhesive and screw up. If necessary use longer screws to draw the plate up but take care not to puncture the bellows.

13) Draw the plate and bellows up tight. Use the correct screws as per the original fixing.

14) Fit the metal rings from the old bellows although they may not be required as modern bellows are much stiffer than the old leather type. This does make for a finished job. Not all cameras had these rings fitted when made. On Mk VII's they are on the 7th fold from the front.

14) Test for light proofing. (See testing in the text at the top of this page).

15) Refit ground glass screen, hood and accessories.

 

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